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EnduroFromDE
03-29-2010, 08:58 PM
I need some help trying to figure out a way to instal one on my car. I got a 1996 Chevy Cavalier. This is what I tried so far and the reason it wont work...

Positive and Negative battery cables(dont work cause the car runs off the altenator not the battery:help:)
Wires off the alt.going to the PCM(car runs off the battery, doesnt turn off)
Any Wires going to the Instrument Cluster/Ignition Cylinder(kills the car and doesnt allow the car to restart and requires reprograming of the Instrument Cluster becuase the stupid GM VATS Module is built inside the Instrument Cluster)
I know there are a few more Cavaliers running out there and someone had to have already installed this on your car and is just wondering how its done...:help::help::help:

RGeeProductions
03-29-2010, 11:53 PM
Cut off switch - Break positive battery cable (for track crews)
Kill switch - Break positive coil/distributor wire (kills motor for you)

Danger83Ranger
03-30-2010, 12:26 PM
wait, we need killswitches other than the key ignition?

Danger83Ranger
03-30-2010, 12:46 PM
nevermind, I just went through the rule book, it doesnt say anything about kill switches. awesomeness

EnduroFromDE
03-30-2010, 01:08 PM
"An On/Off "Kill-switch" must be installed, painted red or orange.
Kill-switch must be reachable from either side of the car while standing outside of the vehicle.
Should be mounted on the center hump next to the driver's seat"

Erin C
03-30-2010, 01:34 PM
***********Only IF you relocate your battery.

Erin C
03-30-2010, 02:21 PM
This is straight from the rules...you have 2 options: This type is my explanation of how the rule should be read

21. Battery Requirements: 2 choices
A. May be left in stock location in the engine compartment. nothing else needs to be done if you go with this option
OR
B. May be relocated in driver's compartment.
if you chose to go with option B you must follow these instructions as well
i. Must be completely enclosed and secured.
ii. An On/Off "Kill-switch" must be installed, painted red or orange.
Kill-switch must be reachable from either side of the car while standing outside of the vehicle.
[The kill switch] Should be mounted on the center hump next to the driver's seat.

EnduroFromDE
03-30-2010, 04:16 PM
my battery IS relocated inside the car. So i DO need a kiilswitch. now, do i need to switch to shut the car off or just disconnect the battery. if i disconnect the battery the car remains running.

critter
03-30-2010, 06:36 PM
i have two in my car, the stock and the cut off switch just to make sure it shuts off

Poppop
03-31-2010, 08:25 AM
:wave:I'm a day late and a couple dollars short as usual on this one. I have a battery disconnect switch and a kill switch but there is a better switch available. It has an alternator field disconnect in it, which is just another set of contacts, and you can just use one switch. Makes it easier in a stressful situation like when you want to get out of the car real fast or when a track worker wants to shut it off. It costs ten bucks more than the other one. :lol:

CJfilms
03-31-2010, 01:18 PM
Put yourself in our shoes...

A car flips, takes a hard hit, is on fire, is stuck against the wall, the driver is unconscious, etc, etc....

We want to be able to get someone (official/EMT) to be able to shut off the car in the case of any of the above incidents. If you are stuck in the car after/during one of these scenarios, you will want an official/EMT to be able to simply reach in and KILL the motor.

If you have a switch for fuel too....great! LABEL THEM BOTH!

YOU don't want someone in an emergency to have to reach into the car and feel around for the key and then look for the fuel switch....you want it to be sticking out like a sore thumb, paint it bright orange or red with the ON/OFF positions highlighted.

If the rule needs to be tweaked to read properly, we can tweak it at any time...with that being said, call the switch what you would like....when I reach in your car and flip that switch, the motor must shut off...

How's that sound?

EnduroFromDE
03-31-2010, 10:20 PM
im not saying that the rules is a bad one nor am i trying NOT to have one. Im just trying to figure out a way to kill both the battery and the altenator in one switch...so thank you poppop for letting me know there is a switch out there that can do that...I just now have to find it, figure out a way to pay for it, and somehow get it installed in 10 days.

Doug132
03-31-2010, 11:29 PM
Any local napa store should have a Heavy Duty / Main Disconnect type switch for around $30 to $40. The switch gets installed in your main Positive battery cable. The cable should go directly from the battery to the switch (that should be located on the tunnel to the drivers right) so that when the switch is off, EVERYTHING is off. You need to take the "hot wire" or "charge wire" from your alt. and put it to the battery side of the main switch. When the switch is on, the battery charges and the car runs, when the switch is off, the car will not run... because the alt. wire is on the batterys side of the switch.

Poppop
04-01-2010, 05:14 AM
:)I ordered my switch from genuinedealz.com. They have marine grade cable and terminals too and free delivery. I just ordered Blue Sea model 9004e200 for about $43.00.:wave:

Trav90
04-01-2010, 06:32 AM
Ordered mine off Speedway for around 22 bucks!

dirtmodfan
04-01-2010, 12:34 PM
I have an ignition kill switch and now a battery cutoff switch. I welded a tab to my rollcage cross bar for the battery cutoff.

CJfilms
04-01-2010, 01:41 PM
Bill,

This is a NEETS Rule for enduros. The rule states that we want the switch mounted on the center hump or in a location that is reachable from either side of the car while standing outside of the vehicle.

A steering wheel mount would not accomplish this. If you install one there, you need one on the center hump as well....keep it simple and cheap...install one switch.

As for racing at Wall, check your PM. I will send you another one....

DerbyN8-128
04-01-2010, 11:11 PM
Ordered mine off Speedway for around 22 bucks!

Same here...worked great all last season and will be going into my new car this season...whenever I start working on it.

Poppop
04-02-2010, 07:53 AM
:)I went with the marine switch because the speedway switch which I have on my truck doesn't stand up to the weather very well. The EC4WD rules call for it to be on the RR fender and since I keep it outside all the time it gets water in it and then it doesn't work. If yours is protected it should be fine. I keep the one on the truck all wrapped up now and havn't had any more problems with it.:applause:

EnduroFromDE
04-02-2010, 06:29 PM
Thanks everyone...I got the car back running and I ordered the switch off SpeedwayMotors.com for like $32 and thats with shipping.