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Poppop
07-15-2010, 08:42 AM
:mad:I'm not realey mad, I just like that flaming face. Does anybody have a cure for the overheating Cavaliers & Sunfires? I've got the fiberglass screen to keep the dirt out of the radiator and it's doing a pretty good job but there must be something else that some of us are missing.:confused:

Poppop

gutter7
07-15-2010, 09:54 AM
What kind of water are you running in your rad ?

Poppop
07-15-2010, 10:12 AM
Tap water, is there something else that's legal?

EnduroFromDE
07-15-2010, 10:25 AM
Ive never had a problem with over heating...maybe take off your bumber cover and cut the bottom of the hood back some. The only problem I have is IF the car stalls, the location of the starter makes it overheat the starter and could be hard to start again.

Poppop
07-15-2010, 11:01 AM
:wave:How about getting us some:lol: cooler weather Steve. About 72 degrees for the whole day sounds good. I did notice that the cars without a bumper cover were not overheating. You might have something there.:applause:

Danger83Ranger
07-15-2010, 11:22 AM
I dont think its the air temp. thats the problem, it does assist in the over heating but I think you might have some internal problem causing the over heating. Even if it was 105 degrees out that thing shouldnt over heat very much as long as your moving consistently. You said you took the thermostat out so that shouldnt be it. A few things I would check would be...

1. Is the radiator clogged? id flush it just to be sure.
2. Make sure there are no air pockets in the system.
3. Ive heard a bad heater core causing over heating when the heater is running, forces hot air into the cooling system? thats a new one to me :confused:
4. Is the oil kind of milky? if so, sounds like a headgasket/warped head problem.

thats all I can really think of, let us know how you make out.

Poppop
07-15-2010, 11:39 AM
:lol:The head gasket is definitely blown now but it overheated first. I'm picking up a new junkyard motor today so I should be ready for next month. Meanwhile, I'll sweep the pigeon poop off the old 1987 #47 and try 150 laps but a little slower.:lol:

richardpetey
07-15-2010, 06:14 PM
Don't feel lonely Poppop, many cars were running a little hot last race......................:rolleyes:
Most overheating/running hot problems, that aren't a direct result of that grandview slop stuck in your radiator, can be attributed to shroud, fan or lack of air flow through your radiator................................:disgusted
Most front wheel drive cars have an overcrowded engine compartment(engine, transaxle, etc.), and less air to dissipate the heat........................:help:
Even on my big car I have to seal the entire area around the front of the radiator to force the air through the core....................;)
I relocated my trans. cooler, made sure my fan is properly placed inside the shroud, put a spring inside the upper rad. hose, installed a washer with a 5/8" hole in place of the thermostat just to name a few......................:drool:
UNCLE PETEY........................:wave: :wave: :wave: :wave: :wave:

mcstockcar
07-15-2010, 09:21 PM
My car got hungry last race and ate the trans cooler, lines, shroud,and belt. It ran at 210-220 once I got rollin. I had an electric fan to put on when we went to a red flag. I put my thermostat back in. It ran hot with a restrictor with5/8 or 3/4" hole. Of corse it went to 270 when all heck broke loose:*-(

RICK16RACIN
07-16-2010, 05:06 PM
not running a thermostat is no good once the car gets hot it will continue to get hotter!!! you need some type of resrictor plate to slow the water down so the air in the radiator can cool it !!!! it sounds funny but there is a fine line in this process if you slow it down too much it will overheat from the block and if it is not slow enough the air coming thru the radiator wont be able to cool it . hope this helps ( iwould start with a 5/8 restrictor plate in place of the thermostat and run the car at home and see if it overheats , and if it seems stable then block 1/3 of the radiator and see how fast it goes up and just experiment from there)
:wave:

Poppop
07-16-2010, 06:58 PM
:wave:That makes sense to me, I'll try it when I put the car back together.

richardpetey
07-16-2010, 07:46 PM
Jack! If your running the 400ci motor, don't forget to drill the steam holes in the heads, the stock 350ci heads don't have'm........................:rolleyes:
If your upper hose is the highest point in the cooling system you will cavitate the system and the water pump sucks the upper hose flat restricting the water flow........................:eek:
Back in the day, I used to drill a 1 3/4 freeze-out plug with a 3/4 hole and glue it to the inlet of the water pump and double clamp the lower hose................................;)
If you don't have a mechanical problem (blown headgasket, thermostat, etc.) and you have a healthy cooling system then its a problem gett'en the air throught your radiator........................:p
UNCLE PETEY...........................:wave: :wave: :wave: :wave: :wave:

Philter39
07-16-2010, 07:49 PM
Perhaps if you had the A/C turned on your car would have run cooler. phil

mcstockcar
07-17-2010, 11:28 PM
I got a/c, but mud keeps coming out of the vents and i got to use more tearoffs.:help:
I tryed the 5/8 hole, too hot,:(3/4 too hot, 180:( t-stat ran the coolest...200.:)
Changed to a larger rad...made a difference.:)
The 400 block was modified....No more steam holes. My machinest explained to me why he closes them off. He does this with all his 400+ ci in blocks and theres never a problem.
I think the wire is missing in my lower hose that keeps it from colapsing. The first race we ran that motor ran at 185-190 the whole time. Now the weather is hotter its not. Im ready to throw in the towl and stick to illegal street racing and drag racing. At least theres not mud on everything, no dents , and FLATS!

Poppop
07-18-2010, 07:43 AM
:wave:Does anybody know if there is a bigger radiator available for a Cavalier. I looked on one replacement radiator site and they didn't have anything listed for Cavaliers.:)

Poppop

richardpetey
07-18-2010, 08:55 AM
Hey Poppop, if you give me the dimensions (H x L x W), the size of the inlet and outlets and their locations, maybe I can look up a radiator by size............................:D
It may not have all the stock mounting tabs, but what self-respecting enduro driver hasn't fabricated a few things..................................:eek:
UNCLE PETEY................................:wave: :wave: :wave: :wave: :wave:

Poppop
07-18-2010, 10:46 AM
:wave:OK here it is 16.5" high 31" wide .650" thick
Bottom connection on right 1.325" OD
Higher connection on left center is 5.5" from top 1.325" OD
vent line at top on right.
Trans cooler on left.

richardpetey
07-19-2010, 06:57 PM
I found a couple of rads. that could work but the part numbers are modine #'s.................:rolleyes
I'll have to see if I can cross them over, its tough to find someone that stock modines anymore, they all stock that Chinese crap....................:disgusted
Is it possible you could put a trans cooler on your car? Most of the rads. I found have the trans. cooler in the opposite tank....................:confused:
UNCLE PETEY...................:wave: :wave: :wave: :wave: :wave:
P.S. Can the left top inlet connection be at the top of the radiator and what is the measurement of the core only.................

Poppop
07-19-2010, 08:05 PM
:)I could put in a trans cooler or pipe it to the opposite side. Either way works OK for me. I could also make the top connection work if I had to. The thickness I gave you is for the core only, the tanks are about 2 1/2". I can't do all that thinking now, it gives me a headache.:lol:

richardpetey
07-19-2010, 11:05 PM
OK Poppop, I have about eight radiators that may work..........................:rolleyes:
Modine #'s 2512 and 2309 both 3 row rads....................:applause:
Modine #'s 2140, 2044, 963, 2511, 740 and 570 all 2 row rads.....................:drool:
Dimensions are all very close to your rad. except the trans. cooler is on the pass. side of rads. and lower right inlet to water pump is 1 9/16" instead of 1 5/16"...........................;)
If I have time I'll see If I can get make, model, and year in case you wanna search the yards.........................................:eek :
UNCLE PETEY................................:wave: :wave: :wave: :wave: :wave:

Poppop
07-20-2010, 05:49 AM
:cheers:Thanks Uncle Petey. I love to search the yards but I just may overheat myself this weekend.:mad: I appreciate all your help.:applause::applause:

Poppop

DerbyN8-128
07-25-2010, 07:55 AM
Cut a 3 sided hole in the back side of the hood near the windshield (rectangular shaped) with the long, uncut side towards the front of the vehicle. Then bend it up slightly. This way air will flow in through the radiator and escape out the top of the engine, helping to cool the engine. Since heat rises and most engine compartments aren't really designed to let air escape out the top, cutting this hole makes a pretty big difference to temps.

Also you could try running Water Wetter in the radiator along with that tap water.

Of course if you have a mechanical problem (like the water pump or a head gasket) none of this will do anything.

Poppop
07-25-2010, 11:45 AM
We must be on the same wavelength Nate. I was looking at my old car yesterday and noticed that it's more open at the back of the hood than the new one. That's a great way to increase the air flow.

Poppop

richardpetey
07-25-2010, 02:23 PM
If you cut that hole(s) in just the right spot in can also double as a mud deflector and help keep some of that grandview outa your face....................:applause:
UNCLE PETEY...................:wave: :wave: :wave: :wave: :wave: