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Any suggestions???????
3 RACES AGO I LOST ABOUT 900 RPM.ONE WEEK I FINISHED 2ND WITH NO PROBLEMS, I COME BACK THE NEXT AND IM SHORT ON POWER.I HAVE HAD THE BEST PEOPLE SUGGEST AND HELP.THIS IS WHAT I HAVE DONE.
1-CHANGED CARBS 3 TIMES
2-FUEL PUMP 2 TIMES
3-CHANGED FUEL LINE
4-CHECKED PICK UP IN CELL
5-CHANGED DISTRIBUTER
6-CHANGED COIL AND MODULE
7-CHANGED FUEL FILTER
8- ADDED ALTERNATER
9- NEW BATTERY 2 TIMES
10- CHECKED MUFFLERS
11-REMOVED THROTTLE STOP
12-CHECKED FUEL PUMP ROD
13-DID COMPRESSION TEST
14-LEAK DOWN TEST
15-FUEL PRESSURE TEST
16-PLUG WIRES
17-CAP & ROTOR
18-BRAND NEW VALVE SPRINGS ON MOTOR WITH 4 RACES. JUST DID THEM AGAIN.(haven't run truck at track yet)
19-INTAKE GASKET HAD A LITTLE LEAK SO WE JUST DID THEM.(haven't run truck at track yet)
20-last but not least, made sure I was in the right gear.
ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS BEFORE I COME FOR PRACTICE??
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Wayne,
My father thinks the rpm problem sounds like a cam bearing issue. Give me a call and he will explain.
Neal Jr
631-831-3599
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Could also be a lobe or lobes worn on the cam. That usually also causes a hard starting condition. Instead of just tapping the starter button and having it start it has to crank over for a bit till it fires. Another thing to check is to pressure the fuel supply. Pressurize the fuel cell and check the whole fuel line for a leak where it could suck air at high rpm. Also if the cam timing is retarted, but that's not likely. It would have to be quite worn and if it jumped a tooth would be alot slower than it is. Could also not have anything to do with the motor. Look for anything in the driveline, hubs, axles, brakes that could be hanging up or failing. Usually something like this would get much worse quickly and would be obvious but it's worth checking. You didn't mention air cleaner on your list but I would think you checked. Also check the ignition switch and the wire feeding it and going to the distributor from it. If the contacts in the switch are pitted, or the wire partially broke anywhere it would still fire the thing up but not carry enough current for the ingnition module to work properly. Usually this would cause a breakup or stutter at high rpm though. That's just a few things I can think of. You've already gone through most of the possibilities.
Rick
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Also try it with the tach unplugged from the dist. I've seen tach's mess up and still work but limit the ignition.
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Let Jamie drive...lol ABSOLUTELY JUST KIDDING......but ya know I had to do it. Don't worry Wayne, it'll come around. Believe it or not I have faith in you.
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Funny vick. lol, Rick, I did change air filter, Ignition switch and fuel line, forgot to add those.But what I will say is it does have a hard starting condition now.......hhhmmm. And no matter what carb I use, it still sounds and runs a little rough. But it does not sputter or break up or pop, just no rpm......flat.
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Definitely sounds like an ignition/advance trouble, I'd look there.
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Wayne, check the harmonic balancer and make sure it didn't spin. Actually happened to Chris back in 2001...caused him problems that were very similar to what you're describing for about 6 weeks before he tripped across it accidentally.
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wayne change main battery kill switch
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Change air freshener!?! I hope you find the problem Wayne, seems like a lot of suggestions, we're playing bench racing here. Seems like a few are really good ideas. Keep us updated on progress.
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How is your valve timing? Sounds like you might have a bit of backpressure. I've seen it happen with street cars. Not sure what kind of exhaust systems you guys are using now-a-days.
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Thanks guy's, girl. I CHECKED IT ALL. I'm leaning towards a cam issue. We'll see. If not, the 4 sale sign goes on it !!
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I'm with Rick on the cam. Without too much disassembly and a dial indicator on a magnetic base, check each lobe (at the end of the rocker) against the cam card. I've experienced more than one failure in the past few years similar to what you are describing.
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I heard through the grapevine that all was good until the 16 volt system burned up. Just replace it with the same.
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Well , no cam problem. But we did find the power wire to the distributer broken!! Must've had the volt meter on this side of the break when we checked a few weeks back. There were about 3 of the 12 strands holding it together under the tape. Replaced valve springs, carb and hot lead to distributor. Trucks runs and sounds a lot better, we'll see. Thanks for the suggestions.
P.S Thanks to Donny Oliver for climbing under the dash as I couldn't get my big a$$ under there!!
P.S.S Thanks to Bub for breaking my ba!!$ all the time to get it fixed!!