Any suggestions???????

[wayne]

3 RACES AGO I LOST ABOUT 900 RPM.ONE WEEK I FINISHED 2ND WITH NO PROBLEMS, I COME BACK THE NEXT AND IM SHORT ON POWER.I HAVE HAD THE BEST PEOPLE SUGGEST AND HELP.THIS IS WHAT I HAVE DONE.
1-CHANGED CARBS 3 TIMES
2-FUEL PUMP 2 TIMES
3-CHANGED FUEL LINE
4-CHECKED PICK UP IN CELL
5-CHANGED DISTRIBUTER
6-CHANGED COIL AND MODULE
7-CHANGED FUEL FILTER
8- ADDED ALTERNATER
9- NEW BATTERY 2 TIMES
10- CHECKED MUFFLERS
11-REMOVED THROTTLE STOP
12-CHECKED FUEL PUMP ROD
13-DID COMPRESSION TEST
14-LEAK DOWN TEST
15-FUEL PRESSURE TEST
16-PLUG WIRES
17-CAP & ROTOR
18-BRAND NEW VALVE SPRINGS ON MOTOR WITH 4 RACES. JUST DID THEM AGAIN.(haven't run truck at track yet)
19-INTAKE GASKET HAD A LITTLE LEAK SO WE JUST DID THEM.(haven't run truck at track yet)
20-last but not least, made sure I was in the right gear.
ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS BEFORE I COME FOR PRACTICE??

[Wheel Racing]

Wayne,
My father thinks the rpm problem sounds like a cam bearing issue. Give me a call and he will explain.
Neal Jr
631-831-3599

[RickFigure8]

Could also be a lobe or lobes worn on the cam. That usually also causes a hard starting condition. Instead of just tapping the starter button and having it start it has to crank over for a bit till it fires. Another thing to check is to pressure the fuel supply. Pressurize the fuel cell and check the whole fuel line for a leak where it could suck air at high rpm. Also if the cam timing is retarted, but that's not likely. It would have to be quite worn and if it jumped a tooth would be alot slower than it is. Could also not have anything to do with the motor. Look for anything in the driveline, hubs, axles, brakes that could be hanging up or failing. Usually something like this would get much worse quickly and would be obvious but it's worth checking. You didn't mention air cleaner on your list but I would think you checked. Also check the ignition switch and the wire feeding it and going to the distributor from it. If the contacts in the switch are pitted, or the wire partially broke anywhere it would still fire the thing up but not carry enough current for the ingnition module to work properly. Usually this would cause a breakup or stutter at high rpm though. That's just a few things I can think of. You've already gone through most of the possibilities.

Rick

[RickFigure8]

Also try it with the tach unplugged from the dist. I've seen tach's mess up and still work but limit the ignition.

[vsmidge68]

Let Jamie drive...lol ABSOLUTELY JUST KIDDING......but ya know I had to do it. Don't worry Wayne, it'll come around. Believe it or not I have faith in you.

[wayne]

Funny vick. lol, Rick, I did change air filter, Ignition switch and fuel line, forgot to add those.But what I will say is it does have a hard starting condition now.......hhhmmm. And no matter what carb I use, it still sounds and runs a little rough. But it does not sputter or break up or pop, just no rpm......flat.