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Thread: killswitch/cutoff switch question

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    893

    killswitch/cutoff switch question

    I need some help trying to figure out a way to instal one on my car. I got a 1996 Chevy Cavalier. This is what I tried so far and the reason it wont work...

    Positive and Negative battery cables(dont work cause the car runs off the altenator not the battery)
    Wires off the alt.going to the PCM(car runs off the battery, doesnt turn off)
    Any Wires going to the Instrument Cluster/Ignition Cylinder(kills the car and doesnt allow the car to restart and requires reprograming of the Instrument Cluster becuase the stupid GM VATS Module is built inside the Instrument Cluster)
    I know there are a few more Cavaliers running out there and someone had to have already installed this on your car and is just wondering how its done...
    I find that your selfish mind is a place to hide when you know what you are doing is wrong

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Posts
    136,548
    Cut off switch - Break positive battery cable (for track crews)
    Kill switch - Break positive coil/distributor wire (kills motor for you)
    ..Richie Grodski
    TheChromeHorn.com
    www.TheChromeHorn.com | RGrodski@thechromehorn.com
    The RacerHub Network
    www.thechromehorn.com | www.longislandjam.com
    Old modifieds never die.........They just get updated.........

  3. #3
    wait, we need killswitches other than the key ignition?

  4. #4
    nevermind, I just went through the rule book, it doesnt say anything about kill switches. awesomeness

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    893

    Copy & paste from the rules..

    "An On/Off "Kill-switch" must be installed, painted red or orange.
    Kill-switch must be reachable from either side of the car while standing outside of the vehicle.
    Should be mounted on the center hump next to the driver's seat"
    I find that your selfish mind is a place to hide when you know what you are doing is wrong

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    1,693
    ***********Only IF you relocate your battery.
    Erin Cutri
    NEETS Official: Co Promoter
    Email: bartleye2@hotmail.com
    Cell: 570-878-0769

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    1,693
    This is straight from the rules...you have 2 options: This type is my explanation of how the rule should be read

    21. Battery Requirements: 2 choices
    A. May be left in stock location in the engine compartment. nothing else needs to be done if you go with this option
    OR
    B. May be relocated in driver's compartment.
    if you chose to go with option B you must follow these instructions as well
    i. Must be completely enclosed and secured.
    ii. An On/Off "Kill-switch" must be installed, painted red or orange.
    Kill-switch must be reachable from either side of the car while standing outside of the vehicle.
    [The kill switch] Should be mounted on the center hump next to the driver's seat.
    Erin Cutri
    NEETS Official: Co Promoter
    Email: bartleye2@hotmail.com
    Cell: 570-878-0769

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    893
    my battery IS relocated inside the car. So i DO need a kiilswitch. now, do i need to switch to shut the car off or just disconnect the battery. if i disconnect the battery the car remains running.
    I find that your selfish mind is a place to hide when you know what you are doing is wrong

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    2,364
    i have two in my car, the stock and the cut off switch just to make sure it shuts off

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    787
    I'm a day late and a couple dollars short as usual on this one. I have a battery disconnect switch and a kill switch but there is a better switch available. It has an alternator field disconnect in it, which is just another set of contacts, and you can just use one switch. Makes it easier in a stressful situation like when you want to get out of the car real fast or when a track worker wants to shut it off. It costs ten bucks more than the other one.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    2,610

    Lightbulb Kill it!

    Put yourself in our shoes...

    A car flips, takes a hard hit, is on fire, is stuck against the wall, the driver is unconscious, etc, etc....

    We want to be able to get someone (official/EMT) to be able to shut off the car in the case of any of the above incidents. If you are stuck in the car after/during one of these scenarios, you will want an official/EMT to be able to simply reach in and KILL the motor.

    If you have a switch for fuel too....great! LABEL THEM BOTH!

    YOU don't want someone in an emergency to have to reach into the car and feel around for the key and then look for the fuel switch....you want it to be sticking out like a sore thumb, paint it bright orange or red with the ON/OFF positions highlighted.

    If the rule needs to be tweaked to read properly, we can tweak it at any time...with that being said, call the switch what you would like....when I reach in your car and flip that switch, the motor must shut off...

    How's that sound?
    ________Joe the Photo Guy
    {_NEETS_}_____________www.neetsracing.com
    Co-Promoter____________Email: joe@neetsracing.com
    Webmaster_____________Cell#: 267-767-4923
    Photographer ___________Nextel: 168*153450*1

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    893
    im not saying that the rules is a bad one nor am i trying NOT to have one. Im just trying to figure out a way to kill both the battery and the altenator in one switch...so thank you poppop for letting me know there is a switch out there that can do that...I just now have to find it, figure out a way to pay for it, and somehow get it installed in 10 days.
    I find that your selfish mind is a place to hide when you know what you are doing is wrong

  13. #13
    Doug132

    I hope this helps and is not info you already know.

    Any local napa store should have a Heavy Duty / Main Disconnect type switch for around $30 to $40. The switch gets installed in your main Positive battery cable. The cable should go directly from the battery to the switch (that should be located on the tunnel to the drivers right) so that when the switch is off, EVERYTHING is off. You need to take the "hot wire" or "charge wire" from your alt. and put it to the battery side of the main switch. When the switch is on, the battery charges and the car runs, when the switch is off, the car will not run... because the alt. wire is on the batterys side of the switch.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    787
    I ordered my switch from genuinedealz.com. They have marine grade cable and terminals too and free delivery. I just ordered Blue Sea model 9004e200 for about $43.00.

  15. #15
    Trav90
    Ordered mine off Speedway for around 22 bucks!

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